Wineguy’s Wine #6 – Marsanne / Viognier blend

Treana 2008 Marsanne / Viognier (Central Coast, California)

Price Point: $18-20
Availability: 4
Color: Deep, Golden Honey (White)
Varietal(s): Marsanne, Viognier
Weight: Medium
My Rating: 16 (1-20 scale)


I hope my e-mail followers remain patient while I formalize the editing process here.  I promise to have it done within the next few posts, so that when I post, it is posted. Blogger Desperately Seeking Editor!

OK then.  If you remember how I described my last wine, the Clos du Bois Calcaire Chardonnay as high in alcohol and needing to be matched with food, this bottle of golden sunshine is equally high in alcohol, yet its uniqueness allows it to stand on its own and it almost dares food to touch it. The color is a deep golden yellow.  One of the colors of the sunset you see as you watch it go down over Morro Bay. The legs are full, announcing the 14.5% ABV (alcohol by volume). Funny thing is this wine never gets ‘hot.’ The alcohol never overpowers it and the multi-faceted and ever-changing aromas keep punching through to the end. This is the kind of wine you want to drink with your nose, just swirl around and continue to take deep whiffs of to the very end in order to appreciate the variety of smells flying out of the glass.  First came honey with a punch of apricots; the next sniff was all peaches; the next was a hint of kefir lime with mysterious but intense floral notes, perhaps honeysuckle or acacia. However, in every whiff, there was the honey with a slight waxy, lanolin undertone. Yet, always that rich, unctuous honey.

While Marsanne is the slightly predominant grape (with 55%), the floral, bright, peachy Viognier (45%) shines through on your first sip.  The Marsanne provides a nice backbone and structure to the intense flavors of the lighter stone fruits such as peach, apricot, mango & nectarines, as well as a bit of a deep citrus, perhaps pineapple, which allows the acidity and structure of this wine to come through and stand up, again all wrapped up in this cloud of honey. The deep long finish lights up a hint of minerality, but just a wisp. A majority of the grapes in this wine came from the Santa Lucia Highlands, who’s cooling climate helps give the wine these stunning aromas and flavors.

We paired this with a simple meal of Pumpkin Ravioli in a Sage & Brown Butter Sauce and Chicken Chipolata with a Shallot Reduction.  The wine paired well, although my favorite glass was the one I had after the meal while watching Real Time with Bill Maher (I had to – Ann Coulter was on – HAH!). 

Pumpkin ravioli in a sage & brown butter sauce; chicken chipolata with a shallot reduction; Treana 2008 Marsanne/Viognier (yeah, and a Fuji Apple Pear Sobe, so?)

Viognier is an aromatic grape variety known for producing textural white wines with strong stone-fruit flavors. On the nose Viognier wines can be very floral, showing aromas that are quite honeyed in sweeter examples. Apricots are the variety’s classic flavor association, often with a richness that can be interpreted as ripe peach. In the late 1960’s just 40 acres (16ha) of Viognier vines were all that remained in the world. It took interest from Yalumba in Australia’s Eden Valley to breathe the first signs of life back into the variety, along with a handful of enterprising wine growers in California, notably Calera. During the 21st Century, Viognier has had a remarkable renaissance, and is now found in France, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, the US, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and even Japan. In some locations, notably California and Australia, Viognier has emerged as a prestigious niche variety. The reason for Viognier’s former decline is also the reason for its current cachet. It is hard to cultivate and not naturally predisposed to producing healthy reliable yields. Moreover, Viognier grapes have naturally low acidity and require a great deal of sunshine to ripen properly. Too much heat and they yield overblown, hotly alcoholic wine that lacks the fresh, steely, apricot zing that is part of the variety’s appeal. It is precisely this difficult balancing act that has led to so many Late Harvest Viogniers being created. As winemakers anxiously wait for their grapes to develop the right flavors, the sugar levels go through the roof, often leaving a sticky Late Harvest style as the only option. Both Condrieu and Chateau Grillet (in France) produce sweet versions of their wines to complement the dry ones, particularly in hot vintages, which drive yields down and sugar levels up. The terroir required to produce quality Viognier is warm and sunny, with a specific soil type. The steep granite slopes of Condrieu and Chateau Grillet have proved able to create perfumed Viognier wine that confidently treads the tightrope between feminine, elegant fragrance and sinuous muscularity. On the Cote Rotie, Viognier is co-fermented into the appellation’s Syrah-based wines, and even the permitted 5% makes a significant difference to the final product. Here, the limestone soils of the Cote Blonde have proved well suited to the variety (and certainly better than the darker, ferrous schists of the Cote Brune). Other terrains have not been so successful, particularly those lacking good drainage. Californian Viogniers in particular have tended towards the over-powerful end of the spectrum, many reaching 15% ABV. In Australia, Eden Valley Viognier produces the nation’s finest examples of the variety, although the cooler areas of New South Wales are also showing significant potential as Viognier-producing regions. Ongoing DNA research at the University of California Davis has suggested a genetic link between Viognier and the Piedmont varieties Nebbiolo and Freisa

Marsanne is a full-bodied white grape that is commonly blended with Roussanne or Viognier. Often touted as a Chardonnay alternative, Marsanne has weight and structure, but often lacks the fruit and perfume needed to make it a complete wine. This explains the long-standing tradition of blending it with the more aromatic Viognier or Roussanne.  The tradition of Roussanne blending has its roots in the steep, granite-based soils of Hermitage of the northern Rhone, but is also used in the broader Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph appellations. In the Savoie and Languedoc, however, Viognier is most often its blending partner. As a single varietal wine, Marsanne can be produced in a number of styles. In Switzerland and northern Italy it is produced as both sweet and dry wines. The Marsanne grape probably originated in the northern Rhone Valley, most likely from the area around the village of the same name, and it is one of the eight permitted grape varieties in the Cotes du Rhone appellation. It is grown extensively in California and Washington, but the grape seems to have found a natural home in Australia, where three-quarters of the world’s Marsanne is now grown. Marsanne first made its way to Australia in the 1860s where it was planted in the states of Victoria and South Australia. The Tahbilk winery was among the first to grow Marsanne in the Nagambie Lakes district, and now boasts what may be the oldest productive Marsanne vines in the world, the ‘1927 Vines Marsanne‘. Old vine Marsanne has the potential to age for up to 15 years and can develop deep amber colors and nutty, orange-marmalade flavors. In its youth Marsanne may be lightly colored with straw, and even green, hues. There is a typical earthen minerality to good quality Marsanne with honeysuckle and melon notes being characteristic of the young wine. Marsanne’s berry clusters tend to be loose and the variety is more productive and less temperamental than Roussanne. In hot climates, Marsanne can struggle to develop enough acidity to prevent its weight from muting its flavor, but cooler climates can produce complex and age-worthy wine.

*The descriptions of Viognier and Marsanne were taken from and edited somewhat by moi for clarity.

Wineguy’s Wine #5 – Chardonnay

Clos du Bois 2009 Chardonnay ‘Calcaire’ (Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California)

Price Point:  $25
Availability:  6
Color:  White
Varietal(s): 100% Chardonnay
Weight:  Medium
My Rating:  13 (1-20 scale)


Thirty years ago, when Clos du Bois was a small family owned operation located in the heart of Healdsburg, the drinking age was still 18, and I was just opening my eyes to the wondrous world of wine, it was this wine, Calcaire, and it deceased sister, Flintwood, who I still mourn, both from the age when intense butter-bombs were appreciated and revered, that not only taught me what malolactic fermentation REALLY was, but firmly cemented me as a Califoniaphile. These two wines, along with Clos’ Merlot, Seghesio Zinfandel and La Crema Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were my introductions to the wine world three decades back.  When I found this bottle on the stores of one of my favorite wine shops here in Rhode Island, I was tickled at the idea of travelling back in time. Of course, it’s true, you really can’t go home again.

The aromas I found (while the wine was cold) were intense green apple, vanilla & baking spices.  As the wine warmed, it opened up with lovely lemony, pear and toasted oak scents. The color was a deep, golden straw and the texture was medium bodied, yet heavy for a white, with what appeared to be “gorgeous gams” (by “gams” I refer to the legs of the wine on the glass*). After my second glass this turned into the perfect wine to swirl around to a spacey random screensaver while listening to some Damien Rice. The flavors, similar to the aromas, light citrus, apple, pear, vanilla, and buttered lightly burnt toast (a hint of the medium to heavy toast put on the barrels), are all wrapped up in a luscious malolactic creamy envelope and topped off with nice acidity. The flaw is in the alcohol.  It is the one flaw in this baby. I like my Chard’s ready to travel. I don’t have a fridge on the third floor where I sit and type this. If my Chardonnay gets warm, I don’t need it to make me sneeze. My third glass was like drinking a Kitty D. special. At an almost chilly 63 degrees room temp, it became almost undrinkable … focus on the almost. So yes, this is a nice bottle of wine. Definitely needs food. Unlike a true butter-bomb, serve chilled. I should have waited to have it with dinner, but I’m not known for my patience.  

*Legs, or to some, tears, are nothing more than a measure of the alcohol, or in wine’s case, ethanol, found in each glass. The physical properties behind are referred to as the Gibbs_Marangoni effect. I could sputter on about the chemical weight of water vs. ethanol, yada yada, so let’s not. Let’s just say that the legs or tears of a wine are a measure of its alcohol content and nothing more.  The heavier the legs, the higher the alcohol. If you want to amaze your friends with a neat trick, place a playing card over the opening of the glass.  Without oxygen, the legs will stop falling.  Remove the card, they will begin again.

**Chardonnay is undoubtedly the noblest white grape in the world. It can produce the greatest variety of wines in the greatest variety of areas. DNA profiling has concluded that Chardonnay is a cross between the notoriously unstable Pinot Noir and an ancient, and now almost extinct, variety called Gouais Blanc. Burgundy, France is the location Chardonnay’s birthplace, and few dispute that claim. Chardonnay is fairly low in character, meaning that it is not terribly impressive on its own, or vastly distinguishable from other white grape varieties you would find in a mass produced white blend. Much of what determines the personality of a Chardonnay is what the winemaker does to the grapes. Using oak to ferment and/or age the wine produces vanilla flavors, while adding richness. Leaving the wine on the spent yeast cells, or lees, adds complexity and a toasty note. Conducting malolactic fermentation (turning the harsher malic or apple acids in the wine to softer lactic or milk acids) reduces the overall acidity and produces a softer, creamier wine. None of this is derived from the grapes themselves but from the hand of the winemaker. Chardonnay is hardy and versatile and can grow successfully in all but the most extreme wine regions around the world. It can make great — though somewhat different — wines almost anywhere it’s able to be grown. Cool climate Chardonnays tend toward a dry crispness and clean fruit flavors. Warmer climate Chardonnays lean toward richer honey and butterscotch flavors. In Burgundy, Chardonnay goes into ALL the region’s white wines. It’s one of the three grapes — along with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — allowed in Champagne and the only grape in blanc de blancs. Chardonnay is everywhere. Chardonnay is particularly compatible with oak, and many wine producers have been criticized in recent years for over-oaking their Chardonnays. Since then, a series of unoaked Chardonnays have entered the arena and are gaining momentum, Newton’s Unoaked Chardonnay from California comes to mind. Traditionally, famed unoaked styles have come from northern Italy, Chablis, and Burgundy’s Mâconnais district.  Chardonnay’s versatility is the main reason why it has become one of the most recognized wines in the world. You can expect a tremendous variety of flavors, medium to high acidity, medium to full body, and minimal fruit to tropical fruit. And you can count on a wine that’s never going to surprise you with sweetness.

**The last paragraph on Chardonnay was taken from a work of Peter Alig to which I made editorial updates and changes.

Committing Venial Sins and Confession to a Pork Belly

One thing that I find the most frustrating – I drink more wine than I write about. Way more wine than I have a chance to commit them to typographic memory. What can make that worse is, sometimes, when I go back to have a wine a second time, the situation of the taste… bar v. restaurant … meal v. drink … you get the picture, changes something about the wine.  I don’t want to be one of those people running around talking into their phone to record things, but it may be not too far down the pipeline. 

Same thing with food.  October 9th was a big milestone for me on my new journey back into the world of wine, what with almost 30 years of dancing around wines, grapes, vineyards, all sorts of places or things associated with the vine. I started teaching about wine again.  I did beer classes in 2010 and taught wine from 2005 through 2009  I did so many seminars in the late 90s and early 00s in California.  I still remember when I sold about 18 cases of almost “gone” Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon (gone meaning it had only a year or so left in its life) with nothing but my mouth and a tub of shucked oysters and some lemons.  I have forgotten the exact things I spoke about Tuesday in class (although I started following the syllabus I developed in the beginning of the class, I’m sure). Those that know me say I go off on tangents.  I’m sure we will be on one by the end of this post. We may be already.  Who knows?  I want to memorialize my meal after the class. The Chef at One Bellevue invited Bobbo and I (or is it me?) to sit down and enjoy a 4 course meal on him.  A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Crispy Pork Belly, pickled red cabbage, golden raisins, cider gastrique

Both of us began with Crispy Pork Belly, a perfect combination of skin, fat and meat drizzled with the most divine (too gay? ok, exquisite then…) cider gastrique with a perfect amount of acid to cut through the thickness of the dish and a nice big glass of the unctuous and dark Belle Glos Meiomi 2011 Pinot Noir. I continued on with Chef Thiele’s Grand Chowder, which is a kind of medium consistency clam chowder base, then nicely supplanted with scallops, shrimp, & lobster.  It has a rich, refined consistency and is spiced properly so it doesn’t fall flat on you from the richness of the cream.  It paired perfectly with the suggested Ferrari Carano 2010 Chardonnay which has a nice backbone of acidity but the proper buttery, creamy base and late summer stone fruit upnotes. This was followed by the sushi-grade rare Ahi tuna steak with blackberry reduction.  It was red meat from the ocean, a rancher’s dream. I had my Mr. Miyagi moment when I was about to order a light Chard when the server recommended something different based upon the exercises and lecture from the class earlier.  Instead, I had the smooth, light, balanced and extremely aromatic 2009 Erath Pinot Noir. Fit the dish to perfection.  The quality of the tuna and the blackberry glaze made it a hearty and sweet dish while the bed of lentils it laid on gave it a salty and earthy quality.  We shared an Artisinal Cheese & Fruit plate while a mysterious bottle of Renwood 2004 Amador Zinfandel Ice Wine appeared before us.  The whole meal was capped off by shots of Redbreast 12-year Irish Whiskey, a smooth easy-drinking whiskey from County Cork, last years Irish whiskey of the year.

Wineguy’s Wine #4 – Grechetto Bianco

Santa Cristina Umbria IGT 2011 (Villa Antinori – Tuscany/Umbria – Italy)
Price Point: $8 – $10
Availability: 9
Color: White
Varietal(s): Grechetto Bianco with Procanico (Trebbiano clone)
Weight: Medium Light
Professional Rating: Unrated
My Rating: 14

Santa Cristina Bianco is an very pale straw yellow color, almost clear color at the edges wine, with remarkable viscosity (legs) nice for an Italian white (central Italy was a scorcher last summer). The aromas are fresh, bright and vividly sweet – redolent with orange blossom, honeysuckle, cinnamon, and exotic citrus notes that are just on the tip of your tongue but out of mind’s reach. The first taste is soft and ambrosial (Grechetto is the grape often used for desert wines from the region including a delicious Vin Santo), later on you get a cascade of ripe Bosch pear, Granny Smith apples and summertime floral notes. The acidity on this wine is bright and clean. It mellows out midpalate and you begin to taste white stone fruits, i.e., peaches, apricots, with just a bit of minerality and a lingering floral hint, but only a hint. The finish and aftertaste is crisp and savory and reinforces in the mouth the floral and citrus aroma notes first felt on the nose.

What is Grechetto? Grechetto Bianco (commonly abbreviated to Grechetto) is a white wine grape variety grown in central Italy. While also planted in Lazio and Tuscany, the grape is most strongly associated with Umbria and is used in the production of the cheerful peach-scented wines of Orvieto DOC.

Although it is believed to have its origins in Greece, Grechetto has been grown in Italy for so long that it is now widely regarded as being native to Umbria. Since the late 20th century, its reputation has significantly improved and Grechetto is now regarded as one of the finest white wine grapes in the region.

This wine is great on its own.  I loved it with some crab/lobster ravioli in a creamy white clam sauce.  Its acididty and fruitiness actually cut through the cream and was a wonderful seafood match. 

Enjoy!  Larry Patrick

Wineguy’s Wine #3 – Pinot Grigio

Borgo Magredo Friuli Grave Pinot Grigio 2010, (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy)

Price Point: $13-14
Availability: 5-6
Color: White
Varietal(s): Pinot Grigio
Weight: Light
Professional Rating: 85-86 (50-100 scale)
My Rating: 13 (1-20 scale)

Clean, crisp & dry, just like the packaging says. By packaging, I mean the Pinot Grigio varietal labeling. After all, that is what a Pinot Grigio should be. The color is light yellow, darker than straw, but a very clean bright lemon color. The nose is stone fruit, a hint of lanolin and tons of minerality, no doubt the typical Pinot Grigio one would find from from the Friuli Grave region east of Venice it originated in. Once this ice maiden hits your mouth (and do pour this cold, please) you are overwhelmed by tons of cantaloupe, apricots, and white peaches, and a touch of those white raisins we loved as kids! The finish has some sweet spices which are quickly swept away by the clean briskness and desire to drink some more. Forget the food, this wine needs some friends OR just a nice afternoon on social media.

Pinot Grigio is the Italian name for the Pinot Gris grape variety. The style in which Pinot Grigio is typically made is so distinctive that Gris and Grigio are typically treated as two different varieties (even if they do have identical DNA). The international marketing behind Pinot Grigio is so strong that for many consumers its name is more recognizable than the original, Pinot Gris. The Italian style has been successfully adopted in the USA, and to a lesser extent Australia, where some wineries produce both a Pinot Grigio and a Pinot Gris, in contrasting styles.

‘Light’, ‘crisp’ and ‘dry’ are the key descriptors used when talking about Pinot Grigio wines. The style is achieved by harvesting the grapes relatively early, which helps retain the variety’s naturally high acidity (for example, harvesting of Pinto Grigio is going on now, and has been going on for weeks!). Fermentation most often occurs in stainless steel tanks to keep the wine fresh and ready for consumption soon after harvest. Also, the influences of barrel ageing would add palate weight and vanilla aromas, detracting significantly from fresh, zingy Pinot Grigio style (so NO oak). Some sparkling wines are made from Pinot Grigio, and in Italy the grape is blended with various other white grape varieties on occasion.

Friuli Grave (or Grave del Friuli) is situated in Italy’s most north-eastern region, Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The area, divided by the Tagliamento river, extends from the province of Udine in the east towards the province of Pordenone in the west. The west stretches from the foothills of the Julian Alps to the sea and borders Veneto, while the eastern side covers a huge area of the central Friuli plains.

This area is the largest DOC in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, made up of approximately 16,000 acres of vineyards (which is HUGE for northern Italy). Soil, climate and situation (situation means how the vines are planted in relation to the sun, say an east facing slope or the south side of a hillside) combine to make the terroir excellent for vine growing. The soil is similar to the Graves in Bordeaux; the name Friuli Grave derives from the alluvial, often gravelly soil that characterizes the zone. The extensive stretch of stones beneath the vines reflects heat and light during the day to help the grapes ripen, as well as acting like a radiator during the night to maintain a constant and even microclimate. The east offers cooler temperatures and higher rainfall, while the west has a more maritime climate. The nearby Adriatic Sea tempers the heat, and the vineyards on the plains are also protected from the cold air currents coming from the north by the curve of the foothills of the Alps.

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Wineguy’s Wine #2 – Carmenere

Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere (Colchagua Valley – Chile):
Price Point: $13 – $15 btl.
Availability: 7
Color: Red
Weight: Medium-Full
Professional Ratings: 87-90 (scale 60-100)
My Rating: 16 (scale 1-20)
 This beautiful, easy drinking Chilean red has a beautiful dusty, herbal nose full of dark cranberries and wild mountain blueberries. The herbal notes are cleaner once you taste this deep yet crisp wine – greek oregano, eucalyptus, cinnamon, all followed by more dark berries, black and blue, and a hint of dark chocolate. The tannins are almost non-existant once you pair this beauty with food (Bob made his famous Lamb Ragú over rigatoni – more a Greek flavored dish than an Italian one) and the medium finish is one of warmed burned Italian bread, white pepper and exotic spices of the subcontinent.

What is Carmenere you ask? It is a dark-skinned red grape variety originally from the vineyards of Bordeaux, which has found a particularly suitable home in Chile where it is sometimes also known as Grande Vidure. A late-ripening variety, Carmenere needs high levels of sunshine and a warm summer to reach its potential, but in the right environment it can produce fine, deeply-colored red wines, with the attractive meaty plumpness of Merlot and the gently herbaceous, cedary notes of Cabernet Sauvignon.These similarities are not altogether surprising, as Carmenere is considered by some to be the ‘grandfather’ of several Bordeaux varieties, genetically ancenstoral to Cabernet Sauvignon & Malbec, which makes it also related to Merlot.

Go on, try it! You’ll like it!


Wineguy’s Wine #1 – Bordeaux

Château Les Grands Maréchaux 2009 (Côtes de Bordeaux, France)
Price Point: $20 – $22
Availability: 8 (but going FAST!)
Color: Red
Varietal(s): 84% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon
Weight: Medium to Full bodied  
Professional Rating: 88-92 (50-100 scale)
My Rating: 17+ (1-20 scale)

What? Me rave about a French wine? Maybe something from the Languedoc, sure, but a Bordeaux? Never! Life Lesson #3487 – never say never! 2009 was an exceptional vintage in Bordeaux for a myriad of reasons and Robert Parker is calling it the best in 32 years. That’s something people! Robert Parker is a deity in Bordeaux. While those $500 bottles are nicely cellared and waiting for Godot, the Bordeaux blends from the Cotes de Bordeaux (or rather, the surrounding countryside that is not “top notch” as Thurston Howell III would say) are priced just right and drinking beautifully.

This blend, which relies heavily on the Merlot and uses the two Cabs for added structure and nose, is rich, unctuous, and ready to drink now through, maybe, 2014 or 2015. The color is a deep ruby red. The nose is full of licorice, violets and the herbal notes that the Cabernet Franc bring to the bottle. The minute it hits your mouth it is elegant, silky, full of dark jammy fruit, black cherries, cola and mulling spice but fresh and lively at the same time. It is definitely an food wine, not something to just sit around and sip. We paired it with a porterhouse steak with a red wine and shallot reduction and the de rigueur baked potato w/butter and sour cream. I was shaking the last bits out of the bottle … the finish on the wine was clean and the tannins were light but present, enough to hold up to a good cut of meat. This is an exquisite wine that is already a favorite. Our wine seller at Bellevue Wines actually opened a bottle for us to try a few weeks ago and sent us home with the bottle. We returned the next day and bought a case. It IS that good. Definitely decant it just to aerate it before serving.

For those that are not familiar with what makes a Bordeaux wine a Bordeaux wine, let me try to explain it as best I can. Unlike in the “new” world (the US, South America, Australia/NZ, South Africa, etc.) where wines are “usually” described by the varietal or majority of varietal grape in the bottle (e.g. Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio (ok, it applies to some of the old world, like Italy, as well), in much of France, Spain, Germany and Italy, wine is called by the region it is grown in and only certain grapes are allowed to be grown in that region. For example, in Burgundy, France, only Pinot Noir can be made into a Red Burgundy and only Chardonnay can be made into a White Burgundy (for the most part). This also applies to the most northern most region of Burgundy, the Champagne region, where only Pinot Noir & Chardonnay are allowed to be used in making true Champagne. In Bordeaux, there are three main red varietals that are principally used: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc. Sometimes, small amounts of other varietals such as Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère are allowed, but only Petit Verdot is really still used, and only in moderation. The latter two have moved to Argentina and Chile, respectively, where they are making wonderful varietal wines. Different regions of Bordeaux use different grapes as the main base, but it is almost always either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, with Cabernet Franc added in. The regions of St. Emilion and Pomerol are famous for their Merlot based wines with Cabernet Franc. This wine would be very close to a poor man’s version of one of those famous Pomerols like Châteax Pétrus or Châteax Le Pin.
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